Flyover Flavor

Location: CWE

Overall rating: 3 out of 5 (The drinks vary depending on which barista makes them, so sometimes the espresso is bitter or sharp and the milk steamed improperly. When pulled correctly, I give the espresso 5 out of 5.)

Drink Menu: A mix of traditional and Starbucks-style drinks. You can find an espresso macchiato or con panna as well as blended espresso drinks and a long list of syrup flavors. You won’t find third-wave coffeehouse drinks, such as cortados or sidecars on this menu.

Food Menu: Breakfast and lunch options. There is no kitchen, but they offer smoothies, sandwiches, waffles and Barista Eggs, which are steamed on an espresso machine steam wand. I haven't seen this method anywhere else in the city. Because the eggs are steamed, there is no oil or butter used, making them healthier, but also lacking much flavor on their own. Throw some cheddar cheese and salsa on them and they taste pretty good.

Brew Options: Not a lot of variety. They offer toddy cold brew, V60 pour overs and standard autodrip.

Most interesting drink: Iced coconut water americano. It's exactly as it sounds – espresso and coconut water. It's refreshing and richer than a standard iced americano.

Espresso Machine: Manual La Marzocco

Roasting style: Medium

Review — pandemic edition:

There are two reasons to go to Northwest Coffee: they’re open in the evenings (a rarity in St Louis) and have a sizable patio. It’s one of the few coffee shops where I feel comfortable staying for a while to enjoy my drink without fear of breaking social distancing guidelines.

Located in a former auto body shop near the Cortex district, Northwest is set back from the street with a covered walkway to the front door on one side and open gravel yard on the other. Even in cold weather, the patio is comfortable thanks to a couple fire pits and space heaters. The tables are spaced out fairly well, so you can keep away from fellow patrons.

The café doubles as a roastery with a 1957 Probat in the back but still in view of the main seating area. When indoor dining is allowed, roasting days (usually Tuesdays and Fridays) are the best times to visit if you want to watch the process from start to finish. In the fall and winter, the roaster warms the whole building and fills it with the rich, nutty aroma of roasting beans. It’s something to look forward to when stay at home orders lift. In the meantime, you’ll have to enjoy the roasting smell from the patio.

While I love this coffee shop, I'm sad to say the drinks are inconsistent. On my most recent visit, I ordered a double espresso and a caramel latte. The espresso was great – smooth with low acidity and a chocolaty flavor. This is one of the few coffee shops where I can drink the espresso on its own because they do a full city roast, which reduces the acidity and takes out the bite that's common in light-roast coffees. It's a good thing the espresso is good on it's own because the latte was disappointing. The milk was not steamed properly, so instead of microfoam (textured milk with very small bubbles), I got a thin layer of foam on top of hot, thin milk. I asked the barista to remake my drink and requested more foam, but the second latte was exactly the same as the first. The only reason to get steamed milk in an espresso drink is for the foam. If the drink isn't thick and velvety, it's not worth drinking. 

If you’re looking for a nice patio or a late afternoon coffee, this shop is a great option. I recommend getting black drip coffee, a double espresso, or an iced latte.