When Retreat Gastropub opened on North Sarah, I was skeptical. Why would you open a gastropub between The Scottish Arms and The Block? Both of these restaurants serve specialty food and cocktails, and have strong followings – especially The Arms. But I gave Retreat a try and I’m glad I did. The food has been hit and miss, but this spot wowed me with the drinks.

                While the interior isn’t noteworthy, it has a nice cozy feel with a small covered patio in the back and a few tables on the sidewalk. It looks like a lot of trendy restaurants in St Louis with a decor that blends modern and rustic details. The table tops are a glossy, light wood, and the bar top is made of a mottled concrete. These warmer colors are paired with a dark concrete floor and cold metal chairs and bar stools. The usual hanging fixtures with exposed bulbs cast soft light, creating a relaxed vibe.

                The food also doesn't break the mold. It’s a gastropub, so of course it offers dressed-up bar food. Artisan sandwiches, flatbreads, and a few full entrées. It has nice variety, so you can either get an appetizer and focus on the drinks or sit down for dinner. They also offer lunch and a weekend brunch.

                I’ve tried a caprese sandwich and was pleased with the portion and flavor. It came on a fluffy, toasted baguette with lots of melty mozzarella and pesto. It was fresh and the right size for a small meal. A friend ordered a creamy chicken pasta that was excellent for a heartier dinner.

                When I tried Retreat's brunch, however, the food fell flat. I ordered a breakfast burrito with cheddar, sausage, potatoes and eggs wrapped in a flour tortilla. As a staple brunch item, this should have been a no-brainer. But it was cold. In fact, it looked like it had never been hot. I could see the individual pieces of the shredded cheese – it never melted! I enjoyed the flavor, so I think it could have been great if it had just spent a few minutes in a toaster oven.

                But, this misstep with the food was made up for in a big way with the drinks.

                Among the usual list of local beers, red and white wines, and staple cocktails, there is an intriguing selection of  house cocktails with names like Heatsource and Back Scratcher. All these drinks have tantalizing recipes that combine classic spirits with spices and syrups made in house. With unusual ingredients such as curry, cedar syrup and cardamom, it was hard to pick. I played it safe and went with a classic negroni. This place earned brownie points by putting this on the menu - it too often gets snubbed! I appreciated the simplicity of Retreat’s recipe. It was mixed well and served with an orange peel, the perfect complement to the bright pink drink.

                Retreat earned double brownie points with the coffee cocktails and mocktails on its brunch menu. I struggled to choose between a Cold Fashioned (Sump cold brew and bitters) and a cold brew and tonic. I went with the Cold Fashioned. Sump's light roasted coffee pairs beautifully with the tart, herbal flavor of the bitters. It was the perfect amount of buzz for a late morning – not enough that I had to clear my schedule for the rest of the day, but enough to make it an official Sunday Funday.

                While the food was inconsistent, I think the drinks and the covered patio made up for it. I will certainly give them a second chance on the brunch.

Quick Bites

 

Service: No complaints. Friendly and attentive.
Food: Inconsistent. Dinner was good, but brunch was served cold.
Drinks: Excellent! A great selection. Finely crafted cocktails and coffee mocktails.
Atmosphere: Casual and comfortable.
Score: 7 out of 10